2020 Reviewed Wines

2020 PINOT NOIR

2020 Mo Chuisle Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Very youthful, deep nose of red berries and sour cherries with touches of candied orange, dried sage and smoke. Grand Cru structure, but the ripeness is wrapped so beautifully that you only feel the full, fine tannins at the super-long finish. Stunning interplay of delicate sweet fruit and chalky minerality there. Limited production. Glass stopper.

Drinking Window: Drinkable now, but best after 2024.

Score: 96

2020 Old Quarry Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

A rich yet finely nuanced pinot noir with a very solid tannic base that’s reminiscent of high-end Pommard wines from Burgundy. Deep sour-cherry fruit, but no hint of overripeness. Major depth and structure at the bold and very long finish give this a ton of aging potential.

Drinking Window: Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

Score: 95

2020 Hedrick Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Full candied-orange and sour-cherry nose with hints of smoke, pomegranate and spice. Impressive concentration and plenty of fine tannin on the medium-bodied palate, the fine tannins building steadily at the long, complete finish. Very limited production.

Drinking Window: Drink or hold.

Score: 94

2020 Charlie’s Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Enveloping floral and ripe-cherry nose with just a hint of smoke. At once silky, concentrated and very well structured, this is already impressive, but the chalky tannins give this stunning depth and suggest that this has so much aging potential. Very limited production.

Drinking Window: Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

Score: 94

2020 Higgins Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Wonderful fragrant nose with sweet and sour cherry fruit and subtle smoke and vanilla from the oak. Concentrated and very silky. The stunningly fine tannins power the precisely contoured palate and the long, graceful finish. Very limited production.

Drinking Window: Drink or hold.

Score: 94

2020 Nutt Road Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Very attractive cherry and raspberry fruit with touches of citrus zest and spice. Simultaneously ripe, delicate and elegant, the fine tannins building steadily at the long, moderately dry finish. Just beginning to open up.

Drinking window: Drink or Hold

Score: 92

2020 Nutt Road Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
The Wine Advocate – Mark Squires

The 2020 Pinot Noir Reserve Nutt Road Vineyard was aged for 11 months in 14% new French oak and comes in at 13.1% alcohol. I’d say this is the best and safest bet of the winery’s Pinot submissions in this report. It has the most firmness on the finish and projects the extra concentration to soak up the better structure, even while remaining light and elegant. This small-production Pinot shows great if you appreciate finesse, as this adds just enough to what its siblings produce. The finish is long, dry and serious. This can use another year or two to evolve and acquire complexity. It should do well thereafter.

Drinking window: Drink or Hold

Score: 90

2020 Paul’s Legacy at Hobbit Hollow Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Clove, dried-sage and cardamon aromas, plus red-berry notes. Quite firmly structured with good density in the core, this needs some time to open up. Long, moderately dry finish with delicate candied-orange and earthy notes.

Drinking window: Drink or Hold

Score: 92

2020 Pinot Noir
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

A fragrant and enticing pinot noir that shows how Finger Lakes can also make attractive, lighter wines from this grape that can stand next to similar wines from Burgundy. Silky finish with delicate red-berry sweetness that pulls you back for more.

Drinking window: Drink or Hold

Score: 91

2020 ESOTERICS

2020 Polarity
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

You could mistake this for a good barrel-fermented chardonnay, thanks to the fine, toasty and candied-citrus aromas. Medium to full body with moderate acidity. Long, textural finish with enough freshness and a touch of chalky character. A 100% pinot noir that was vinified as a white wine, partly in used oak casks and partly in stainless steel.

Drinking window: Drink or hold.

Score: 92

2020 SPARKLING

2020 Sparkling Riesling
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

What a joyful wine traditional-method sparkling riesling is. Stacks of sliced pear and lemon blossom aromas, plus a touch of garden herbs, make this lively and light-footed wine very easy to enjoy. The balance of fruit, crisp acidity and fine mousse is spot on. Juicy front palate, but properly dry at the surprisingly long finish.

Drinking window: Drink from release.

Score: 92

2020 RIESLING

2020 Estate Riesling
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Complex, youthful nose with a wide spectrum of delicate yellow-fruit aromas that range from lemon to fresh pineapple, but the more striking thing about it is the intense, chalky minerality. Long, very clean and harmoniously dry finish

Drinking window: Drink or hold.

Score: 93

2020 Estate Riesling
The Wine Advocate – Mark Squires

The 2020 Riesling Estate Vineyard comes in with 6.9 grams per liter of residual sugar, 8.7 of total acidity and 12% alcohol. On paper, this is fairly similar in style to the Dry Riesling, but on the palate, it is different. This leans more to the acidity side while the Dry Riesling is friendlier, balanced, fresh and pure. This is a little stonier and more intense, the one you cellar for another year or two. It’s the one that you will need to pair with appropriate foods too. The regular Dry Riesling is more of a crowd-pleaser that is ready to roll now, even if it too ultimately ages as well. And don’t misunderstand; that has its fair share of acidity as well.

Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033

Score: 92

2020 Dry Riesling
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

So much ripe citrus, plus a slew of yellow peach. Wonderful balance of ripe fruit, medium body and lively, citrusy acidity. Good depth and a subtle, earthy quality at the long finish. Made from vineyards on Seneca Lake.

Drinking window: Drink or hold.

Score: 91

2020 Dry Riesling
The Wine Advocate – Mark Squires

The 2020 Dry Riesling comes in with eight grams of residual sugar and 8.1 grams of total acidity, plus 11.1% alcohol. A beautiful wine, this feels full in the mouth but also perfectly balanced between acidity and sugar. As Dry Rieslings go, it is not particularly stern or steely, but it has perfectly integrated acidity. It tastes great and seems classic in both flavors and aromas. As it airs out, the acidity shows off a little more, justifying its name. I liked it more and more. It should age well, perhaps better than indicated. It’s a beauty that still has room to improve.

Drinking window: 2022 – 2033

Score: 92

2020 Riesling
James Suckling – Stuart Pigott

Very crisp and vibrant with plenty of ripe apple, lemon and grapefruit, but also notes of fresh herbs and candied angelica. Healthy structure that enables it carry the fresh acidity at the long, crisp finish.

Drinking window: Drink or hold.

Score: 91

2020 Riesling
The Wine Advocate – Mark Squires

The 2020 Riesling, meant to be an off-dry version, comes in with 19 grams of sugar, 11.1% alcohol and 8.1 grams of total acidity. The fruit here is sourced from Seneca Lake (Seneca East is on the east side, and Nutt Road Vineyard is on the west side). This handles its sugar perfectly, the acidity easily cutting through and taking over. The sugar does its job, though, making this just a little friendlier. It shows dry enough to still pass for a regular table wine, and on the finish, there is plenty of tension and lift to the fruit. At a very reasonable price point, this delivers classic flavors and aromatics in a tightly wound package that seems serious and focused

Drinking window: Drink or hold.

Score: 91