2017 Reviewed Wines
2017 Estate Riesling
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
This is sourced solely from estate vines on the eastern side of Cayuga Lake. Whew. Showing much more power and concentration than the regular Dry Riesling, this fills the mouth, grabs the palate and doesn’t let go. The acidic backbone is impressive, but it is fully matched by the mid-palate. If you want to approach this now, that’s on you, but it will be better in a few years and then age effortlessly. It is probably a 20-year wine. There is a hint of petrol, but just a hint. The winery produced a trio of Riesling stars this issue. This has as much of a claim to being my favorite as any of them, and I leaned a little to it. Still, every time I went back to them, I changed my mind and had a new favorite. Call it even, depending on your preference and the moment. Maybe when they settle down, develop and have a few years of age on them, that conclusion will change.
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2037
Score: 92
Wine Spectator – James Molesworth
Brisk and pure, with pippin apple, fennel, lime pith and jasmine notes streaming through. Tightly focused on the finish.
Score: 91
2017 Paul’s Legacy Riesling
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
This is another beautifully constructed Riesling this issue. It has a firm acidic backbone, fine concentration and the ability to absorb its relatively modest sugar. It’s on the borderline of medium dry, but it shows in a way I’d rather call dry. Nicely constructed, understated and tightly wound, this should age beautifully. Now, like the Estate Riesling this issue, this needs a few years to become more expressive. In fact, this might need cellaring more, as it is more closed. It will also hold well thereafter. There’s a very minor touch of petrol—very minor— and it does open up with a little air. The upper-level trio this issue has some similarity—transparency, acidic backbones, concentration and age-worthiness.
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2037
Score: 92
Wine Spectator – James Molesworth
This glistens with Jonagold apple, honeysuckle, acacia and jasmine notes. Pure, brightly defined and long through the finish.
Score: 92
2017 Seneca East Riesling
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
There’s a touch of petrol up front, as with the Paul’s Legacy bottling, but not much. The balance is a little friendlier than on the Paul’s, the fruit a little more expressive. That’s relative, though, since this too is fairly closed, fairly tight and surprisingly concentrated. This is part of a trio of Riesling stars this issue, together with the Paul’s Legacy and the Estate bottling. Yes, Heart and Hands is good for something besides Pinot Noir! This seems poised to age beautifully.
Drinking Window: 2019 – 2035
Score: 92
Wine Spectator – James Molesworth
A seductive Riesling, with a hint of jasmine out front, followed by slightly rounded yellow apple, yellow plum and beeswax notes, giving this a flattering feel through the finish. Very distinctive.
Score: 92
2017 Dry Riesling
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
This has more power than concentration, but the freshness is lovely. The acidic backbone here certainly makes this dance if not sing, and it still seems to have reasonable concentration. Indeed, this lively Dry Riesling still feels relatively full-bodied while retaining its elegance.
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2030.
Score: 90
Wine Spectator – James Molesworth
Fresh lime, green apple and kiwifruit flavors are pure and precise, backed by lip-smacking slate notes on the finish
Score: 90
2017 Sparkling Riesling
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
The 2017 Sparkling Riesling was disgorged in April 2019 after about 14 months on the lees (happily, the date is on the label). It comes in with eight grams of sugar, 8.3 of total acidity and 12% alcohol. Although this, like the Brut Rosé, wasn’t on the lees that long, this has more toast and power and a finer acidic core. It has fine depth for the level and style, and more distinction than the Rosé. It may hold very well. Drinking Window: 2018 – 2030.
Score: 90
2017 PINOT NOIR
2017 Pinot Noir
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
This is the winery’s standard blend from four vineyards on Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. This is the first year that fruit grown in the Heart & Hands Estate vineyard was included in this wine, said co- owner Susan Higgins. Fresh, respectably concentrated and lively, this has darker fruits, including black cherries and a touch of bitter plums. Intense, built to age and very focused, this could use another year or two in the cellar. It should hold for a decade or so thereafter. It should become steadily more expressive as it ages. Drinking window: 2021 – 2030
Score: 90
2017 Brut Rosé
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – Mark Squires
The 2017 Brut Rosé is a Pinot Noir that comes in with eight grams of sugar, 9.2 of total acidity and 12.2% alcohol. It was disgorged on the third of January 2019 after 12 months on the lees (and it’s always great to see a winery putting disgorgement dates on the label). Filled with fresh raspberry and cherry flavors, this more importantly has a lively feel, a crisp finish that is very appealing. The fruit is never cloying. It’s not a complex sparkler, to be sure— only 12 months on the lees—but it is a tasty and refreshing one.
Drinking window: 2019 – 2027
Score: 89